WHAT YOU NEED TO

TURBO YOUR 3RZ?

On this page you will find a basic run down of the parts you will need to setup a turbo on your 3RZ.

If you havent already - check out our workshop ute build here.

There are many ways to achieve this and we will try to cover a few options and their pros and cons.

For a Basic turbo kit will need:

Manifold

The 3RZ was never offered from the factory with a turbo. This means there is no facotry turbo manifold available and all options will be aftermarket. There are many manufactures of 3RZ turbo manifolds.

The first choice is log manifold or "Spaghetti" manifold. Many look past the log manifold thinking it will hinder their performance. We have a DIY Log manifold on our workshop Tufflux currently making 385hp on 98 fuel, with standard cams, through an auto and we are confident it will make 500hp once flex tuned on E85.

The advantage of a log manifold is cost, and packaging. being compact and allowing more room for hose and lines and turbo positioning for more dump pipe clearance.

The disadvantage is flow, it will not flow as well as a spaghetti manifold, but if you are looking at a sub 400hp build, we believe it is a good choice.

While deciding which style of manifold you want, you need to consider the size of your turbo and your wastegate.

SHOP MANIFOLDS

Turbo

Turbo choice is highly debated. Turbo choice will be determined by your HP goal. Our experience shows a 30-frame turbo is the best fit for a standard to 500hp build (and beyond with the new G series turbos)

Future proofing now is your best option. While an internally gated turbo may work for a 7psi factory ecu setup and reduce costs now, once you start to run higher boost levels, more exhaust gas will be produced. To maintain boost levels, enough exhaust gas needs to be able to bypass the turbine wheel. It is our experience that this is not reliably achievable with an internal wastegate.

Some of our builds:

PSR3076 Gen 2 0.82 T3

Stock engine/ecu manual 98RON

- 221hp 7psi

Stock engine/Haltech manual 98RON

- 280hp 12psi

Spool Rods and Ross pistons auto 98RON - 385hp 18psi

PSR6262 1.01 V-band

Built engine/cams auto E85

- 740hp 35psi

Garrett G45-1350 1.01 V-band

Built engine/cams auto E85

- 1026hp 45psi

SHOP TURBOS

Wastegate

The wastegate controls your boost level - too much boost in an engine that isn't built for it will result in a failure. For this reason we always use Turbosmart wastegates. The size of the wastegate will be relative to how much boost you want to run, and how efficient your exhaust setup is. While it may see counter intuitive, a setup with higher back pressure (log manifold) will flow more through the wastegate than a highly efficient flowing manifold, unless the wastegate is positioned in a priority flow position. (exhaust gasses flow to the wastegate before the turbine wheel)

SHOP WASTEGATES

Oil Feed Line

Your turbo will need to be fed with pressurised engine oil, and this will need to drain back to the sump. To facilitate this, you can pickup pressurised oil using a tee adapter off the oil pressure switch in the main oil galley. The downside to this option is the size of the fitting and the distance the sensor ends up away from the block. This leverage can break the 1/8bspt thread screwed into the block. It is our preference to pick up the oil from the oil filter housing. There are 2 oil ports on the oil filter housing. The rear port is pre oil filter and the front port is post filter. Our Oil feed line kit provides you with all the required fittings to pickup from the filter oil port and provide clean pressurised oil to your turbo.

SHOP HOSES

Oil Drain Line

Most turbo manufactures recommend a minimum of -10 Oil drain line. This is so oil does not back up in the turbo and leak past the seals. Your manifold choice will determine what style of drain you use, but it is always recommended to use a steel braid or solid line until well clear of the manifold heat. The sump will need to be removed to weld a fitting for the return. A how to can be found here.

SHOP HOSES

Water Lines

Waterlines feed engine coolant to the turbo to cool the core. As the 3RZ was not factory turbo, there is no factory provision for these waterlines. We have used 2 methods to plumb these lines.

Running our Pushlock Water kit in series with the oil heat exchanger - this requires the use of 1/2' rubber lines up to -8 fittings into the turbo. This works well with a log manifold as it is possible to keep the lines well clear of the heat, however if using a spaghetti style manifold, it is recommended to use a braided hose for the water lines.

Generally, this is done by running the lines in parrallel with the factory heater. Using tee adaptors in the inlet and return of the heater core with -6 an fittings allows the use of braided hose to the turbo.

SHOP HOSES

Exhaust

The factory exhaust is 2.25" and is a definite restriction to the system. It is recommended that you run a 3" system with required mufflers to get the loudness level you are chasing. For this reason, we don't currently offer a dump pipe as it will not match up with the factory exhaust.

The wastegate can be plumbed back into the dump pipe for a quieter and legal setup, or can be setup as a screamer for those race car feels.

Fuel System

As boost pressure increases, the fuel pressure is now pushing against that boost pressure, effectively lowering the fuel pressure. For this reason, a 1:1 rising rate fuel regulator needs to be used. This will increase the fuel pressure by 1psi for every 1psi of boost, maintaining the pressure differential at whatever the base fuel pressure is set at.

We recommend a quality unit and sell a kit using a Turbosmart FPR6.

SHOP FUEL SYSTEMS

PIPING

Intercooling will depend on the model you have. Most commonly, bead rolled 2.5" aluminium pipe with silicone joiners to suit turbo outlet and intercooler outlet sizes are used. The factory throttle body is 2.75".

Turbo will dictate the inlet size - reduce this down to 3" if using the original airflow meter and stock ecu. It is important to put some length between the turbo inlet and the AFM, to avoid disturbed air recirculating through the AFM.